Make a background transparent
Click a background to remove it and make it transparent, or fade the whole image by any percentage. Made for logos, product shots and scans — nothing is uploaded.
How to cut out a background without losing the details
There are two completely different jobs hiding behind the word transparency, and picking the wrong one is the usual reason people give up. Fade makes something evenly see-through — a watermark, a background image behind text — and it treats every pixel the same. Remove a background colour is the one you want for a logo or a product shot: you click a spot, and every pixel connected to that spot by a similar colour disappears, following the real outline of your artwork. It works by colour and connection, not by rectangle, which is why it can follow a curve you could never draw by hand.
The quality of your source decides most of the outcome
A clean, evenly coloured background lifts out almost by itself. A photograph of a printed logo, or a heavily compressed JPEG, is much harder, because compression scatters the background into dozens of slightly different colours that no single setting can catch at once. AI-generated logos are the difficult case: they look smooth, but their pixels are subtly scrambled mixes, and sometimes no tolerance separates them perfectly. Get as far as you can here, then save the PNG and clean up the last specks in any paint program. If you have any say in it, ask for the original file rather than a screenshot of it — that one request saves more work than any setting on this page.
Tolerance: the one dial that matters most
Tolerance decides how different a pixel may be from the one you clicked and still count as background. Too low and you leave a halo of slightly-off pixels behind; too high and the selection eats into the artwork itself. The right approach is to start low and raise it a step at a time, watching the edge rather than the middle — the middle is easy, the edge is where the decision is made. Shadows, gradients and JPEG artefacts all push you toward a higher tolerance, while a logo whose colour sits close to its background pushes you lower.
When one tolerance is not enough: fence off an area
This is the situation that defeats most tools. A logo with a bold emblem above thin lettering needs two different settings: enough tolerance to clean the emblem completely will usually eat the thin text, and a setting gentle enough to protect the text leaves a rim around the emblem. The answer is the rectangle or free-selection tool. Draw an outline around just the part that needs its own treatment, and that outline becomes a boundary in both directions — a click inside can never spread out, and a click outside can never reach in. So you clean the emblem hard, remove the boundary, fence off the text, and clean that gently. Two passes, each with its own setting, without either one touching the other.
The faint fringe around the edges, and how to remove it
Almost every image has an anti-aliased edge: the outermost pixels are a genuine blend of your subject and the old background, not purely one or the other. Cut the background away and that blend stays behind as a pale rim — the classic white halo around a logo lifted from a white page. This tool already softens and colour-corrects that blended edge automatically, which removes it in most cases. When a low-quality source still leaves something visible, the Edge cleanup slider shrinks the outline inward by a pixel or two, which is almost always enough. Use it sparingly: past three or four pixels you start eating real detail, and thin lettering suffers first.
The result is always a PNG, and what to do with it next
Transparency needs an alpha channel, so the download is a PNG even when you started from a JPEG. That is worth knowing before you send it on, because a transparent PNG behaves differently everywhere it lands: put it in an animated GIF and the see-through parts become hard-edged, send it through WhatsApp as a GIF and they turn white, drop it into a Word document and it sits cleanly on the page. Once you have the cut-out, the natural next steps are shaping it — cutting it to a heart, star or custom outline — or dropping it onto another photo as a layer. Both of those are separate tools on this site, and both take a transparent PNG as their input.
Two ways to make something transparent
"Fade" scales down the alpha channel of a region — the whole image or a zone you drag out — regardless of what colour is there. "Remove a background colour" instead works spot by spot: click anywhere and every pixel connected to that spot by a similar colour turns transparent, following the actual shape of what's there — not the whole image. That keeps unrelated details safe even if they happen to share a colour. Click again on a separate spot (like the hole inside an "O") to remove that too, or draw a rectangle or freehand outline first to fence off where a click can spread — handy when one part of an image needs a gentler setting than the rest. Because transparency needs an alpha channel, the result always downloads as PNG, even if you started from a JPEG.
Can I fade just part of the image?
Yes — click and drag on the preview to draw a rectangle; only that zone gets the transparency applied. Click "Clear zone" to go back to fading the whole image.
Is my image uploaded anywhere?
No — everything happens on a canvas in your browser. Nothing is uploaded.
How does "Remove a background colour" handle logos or text on a solid background?
Click the background once — it selects that connected area only, following the actual outline of your artwork, not a rectangle and not the whole image. A closed shape like the hole inside an "O" isn't connected to the outer background, so it needs its own click if you want it removed too — this keeps small same-coloured details inside your logo safe by default, which matters most when there's little contrast between what you want to keep and what you want to remove. Raise the tolerance if some background pixels are slightly off-colour (shadows, JPEG compression) and get missed; lower it if the selection starts eating into the artwork itself.
Why do I still see faint white or coloured pixels around the edges?
This happens because the outer edge of most logos and photos is anti-aliased — the very edge pixels are a genuine blend of the subject and the background colour, not purely one or the other. The tool already softens and colour-corrects that blended edge automatically, but a low-quality or heavily compressed source image can still leave a faint fringe. Use the "Edge cleanup" slider to shrink the visible edge by a pixel or two — that's usually enough to remove it completely.
One part of my logo needs a different tolerance than the rest — how do I handle that?
This happens with logos that mix bold shapes and thin, delicate details, like fine text under a solid emblem: a tolerance high enough to fully clean the emblem often eats into the thin text too, and a tolerance gentle enough to protect the text leaves background around the emblem. Switch to the "Rectangle area" or "Free selection" tool and draw an outline around just the part that needs different treatment — the tool then switches back to "Magic click" automatically. The outline works as a boundary in both directions: clicks inside it can never spread past it, and clicks outside it can never reach in, so each side can get its own tolerance without ever touching the other. Use "Remove boundary" to go back to working on the whole image at once.
Does the quality of my source image matter?
A lot — the cleaner and sharper the source, the easier and prettier the result. Flat, evenly-coloured backgrounds fade out almost by themselves. AI-generated logos are the hard case: they often look smooth, but their background pixels are subtly scrambled mixes of many colours, and sometimes no tolerance setting can separate them perfectly. Get as far as you can here — the boundary tool and "Edge cleanup" help a great deal — then save the PNG and finish the last few specks in any paint program (Windows 11's Paint, Paint.NET or GIMP all do fine for that final touch-up).
